‘Jiro’ and the Impossible Dream of Authenticity
EATER
AUGUST 30, 2022
In 2013, now-Eater editor Lesley Suter wrote in Los Angeles Magazine of “ the Jiro effect ,” which had spurred, in her estimation, an “‘authentic” sushi craze.” Ono’s perceived authenticity accounts for at least some part of his reverence. As Ono explains in the film, “We can’t buy just any tuna.” When used by diners in the U.S.
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