An evening at Shunsaiten Tsuchiya can feel like a spiritual pilgrimage. Located in a peaceful outskirt of Osaka, the tempura-meets-kaiseki restaurant is in a traditional house with stark Zen interiors. Chef Yukihiko Tsuchisaka cooks with cottonseed oil, both for its frying properties and to honor Osaka’s past as a textile center. As he coats and fries seasonal ingredients like Hokkaido scallops and wakasagi smelt, he makes miniscule adjustments based on the heat of the oil, constantly tinkering with the thickness of the batter or sourness of the dip. Tsuchisaka’s dedication to his craft has made Shunsaiten Tsuchiya the only tempura restaurant to receive two Michelin stars every year since 2012.

Bursting onto the scene in 2016 and garnering its first Michelin star two years later, Yonemasu remains one of the city’s hardest reservations to get. From behind the counter comes course after course of minimalist kaiseki. Every month, Tomoya Yonemasu conjures up a seasonal menu themed around elements of Japanese culture, like a springtime hamaguri clam soup inspired by dishes traditionally eaten during Hinamatsuri, or the Doll’s Festival, in March.

Ultra-thick, fluffy pancakes have taken the country by storm and are a regular sight on social media, but Sunshine has been flipping jiggly flapjacks since 1973, long before the breakfast-dessert crossovers became a trend. Pair the bouncy hotcakes with a drizzle of maple syrup and a cup of dark roast. Japanese coffee shop classics like omurice, pilaf, and spaghetti Napolitan round out the vintage menu.

Many traditional Japanese bars serve horse meat as an inexpensive snack. At Ketobashiya, it’s served raw or lightly seared, always treated with the same careful attention normally reserved for beef. Start with an appetizer of sashimi or raw liver, before proceeding to yakiniku, the main event. Nearly every cut imaginable is available to grill, though the menu is only in Japanese.

Every day, chef Toyoji Chikumoto stands before chunks of raw tuna, cigarette in mouth and flamethrower in hand. Toyo-san, as he’s known, mixes maguro with his bare hands and then blasts it with a dramatic fountain of fire that sears it in seconds. Theatrics aside, his flame-torched tuna cheeks are fire, charred on the outside but raw and juicy within. For a second course at his street food stand, tear into a plate overflowing with extra fatty tuna sashimi, sea urchin, ikura (salmon roe), and dollops of wasabi.

Chef Akemi Nakamura and her all-female staff have risen above Osaka’s male-dominated fine dining scene by delivering eye-catching kappo cuisine with gracious attention. Nishitemma Nakamura took home a Michelin star for its seasonal Japanese menu with sprinklings of Western ingredients like cheese and duck, paired with a fine selection of Burgundy wines. Among the food presentations inspired by ikebana, the ancient art of flower arrangement, Nakamura’s standout course is the hassun, a tray filled with small dishes that are bold, balanced, and visually playful.

Founded in 1891, Sushitsune is the birthplace of battera, or pressed mackerel sushi. Today, the seven-seat Michelin Bib Gourmand-winning restaurant is run by fourth-generation chef Satoru Ishikawa. Watch as Ishikawa presses vinegared horse mackerel and rice in a wooden box, then slices it into bite-sized rectangles, just as his ancestors did. Also try his small, spherical temari sushi and the battera made from konoshiro (dotted gizzard shad).

There’s no better example of new-wave ramen than Moeyo Mensuke. Started by classically trained chefs, the austere, expensive-looking storefront still commands painfully long lines. The exquisite duck ramen is more than worth the wait, putting the luxurious flavors of Wakayama prefecture’s revered Kishu duck at the forefront of a shoyu (soy sauce) soup. The bouncy noodles and rare, smoky duck meat on top round out a bowl that’s way more opulent than its price point.

Though Tokyo’s perfectionist Neapolitan pizza has blown up in English-language media, as usual, Osaka’s counterpart scene continues to fly under the radar. Two years after a second-place finish in 2013’s World Pizza Championships in Naples, Tomohisa Niizoe returned to his home city to open Regalo. Since then, the carefully crafted limone (topped with lemon and cherry tomatoes) and margherita pies flying out of his custom oven have come to rival any in Tokyo — or Italy.

Osaka’s well-known roll cake may owe a lot of its fame to Mon Cher. The brand is absurdly popular with locals and domestic tourists. The spongy Dojima cakes are filled with a generous helping of silky cream made from raw Hokkaido milk. Rolls are available in department stores throughout the city, but the bakery makes micro-adjustments to the recipe every day, so it’s best to purchase yours from the main shop.

Many foreigners turn up their noses at oden, the stuff-floating-in-dashi dish symbolic of winter — but they probably just haven’t had a good rendition yet. At Hanakujira, the light, simmering broth is bursting with complexity. However, unlike high-end oden shops, Hanakujira keeps things affordable and ultra-casual, just as the workaday stew of boiled tofu and konjac (an Asian tuber with a starchy, jelly-like consistency) should be. Be warned: Lines can get absurd, especially on cold days.

While kids in Japan look forward to summer for school break, adults look forward to eating bowls of unagi (freshwater eel). Dubious health benefits aside, eel is a treat for the warmer months, and few places do it better than Honke Shibato. Known as the restaurant that invented the local eel preparation, 300-year-old Shibato doesn’t steam its eels (which is traditionally the first step elsewhere) before brushing them with brown sauce and flame-broiling them. Combined with a head-to-tail cutting style, the resulting strong flavor and crisp texture make Osakan unagi a summertime dream compared to eel in the capital.

Hajime Yoneda’s French-ish restaurant was awarded three Michelin stars soon after opening in 2008, and for good reason. The chef — who is also a painter — treats his plates like canvases for intricate dishes inspired by space and nature. For example, a slice of medium rare pigeon with swoops of wild arugula, pomegranate, and blackcurrant sauces evokes the sky. Hajime is most famous for Planet Earth, a plate featuring 110 vegetables arranged like swirling oceans and foamy clouds.

Jibundoki’s Michelin Bib Gourmand-winning okonomiyaki elevates the Osakan savory pancake with rich infusions of pork and chicken broth. The okonomiyaki — bouncy inside, crisp outside, layered with sauces — are the main draw, but other upscale teppan menu items like sobameshi, shiitake mushrooms with foie gras butter, and garlicky Awaji beef are more than just distractions. Save some room for Jibundoki’s kushiyaki, which includes unusual ingredients like tteokbokki, prosciutto with cheese, and more.

Take a break from Osaka’s boisterous energy at Wad, a Zen-meets-hipster teahouse run by Takehito Kobayashi and his young staff. The tea masters ask you to choose a bowl crafted by local artists, and they’ll fill it with your choice of leaves. Pair a sencha with grilled mochi glazed with soy sauce or a bowl of kakigōri (shaved ice) topped with matcha or red bean. With its minimalist decor and relaxed omotenashi (mindful hospitality), Wad brings the essence of the Japanese tea ceremony to the Instagram age.

LiLo’s tiny storefront isn’t the most comfortable place to linger, but its hand-poured coffee still draws hordes of bean aficionados. Osaka’s small-batch roasters have typically gone for dark roasts, but LiLo has faith that brighter blends will catch on in the city. Tasting notes and the origins of the beans are illustrated on descriptive cards that come with each cup. The color-coded charts and impeccably helpful staff help diffuse any intimidation neophytes might feel visiting such a specialist.

Kyu Yamu-tei was responsible for the popularization of “spice curry” around Osaka, a style that, as its name suggests, is loaded with Indian and Japanese spices. The daily rotating menu includes idiosyncratic, extra-seasoned takes on curries inspired by varieties from around the globe, such as beef keema infused with seaweed, miso, and bonito flakes. An order of two curries at lunch, or one for dinner, comes arranged around a mound of turmeric rice and colorful vegetables. Strong not in heat but in flavor, each dish strikes a surprising balance.

Dotonbori’s takoyaki stands tend to be noisy chains crowded by tourists, who can put a damper on the vibe. Instead, follow Osaka’s teenage fashionistas to Daigen, a bare-bones vendor in Amerikamura, the district of vintage clothing and vinyl records. For decades, an elderly couple has been doling out octopus balls topped with mountains of green onions, as well as takosen (takoyaki sandwiched by two thin, crisp, shrimp rice crackers). Daigen’s batter strikes the right notes — soft inside, crisp outside, and not too heavy — adding nuance to the street food staple.

Yoshoku, the only-in-Japan take on Western food, used to be the pinnacle of luxury. While those days are long gone, Muguni upholds the tradition of precise takes on one particular item: omurice. A particularly rich version of the rice-filled omelet takes center stage here; instead of the usual squirts of ketchup, the egg is topped with slices of Kobe beef, or truffles with Gorgonzola. It’s a meal fit for a French king — as imagined in postwar Japan.

New Light is an old line yoshoku (Japanized Western food) restaurant whose main draw is its inexpensive Ceylon curry. An idiosyncratic take on standard brown Japanese curry, New Light’s version is extra soupy and pre-mixed with fluffy white rice and a raw egg. Demi-glace sauce lends a sweetness that continues to attract both regular folks and celebrities, whose signatures line the walls.

American is a particularly gaudy example of a jun kissa, an endangered style of old-school coffee shop. The kitschy, mid-century decor and thick, rich pancakes draw dedicated regulars and tourists. Other classics, like the fruit sandwich and coffee jelly, have all but disappeared in modern Japan, but still feature proudly on the menu of this postwar relic.

In keeping with Osaka’s punk rock attitude, okonomiyaki translates to “whatever you’d like, grilled.” The savory pancake is built from a batter of cabbage, flour, and egg, a deceptively simple balance that Houzenji Sanpei nails. Tucked in a Dotonbori alley, the little restaurant delivers big flavor with combos like beef tendon, konjac, and green onion; or shimeji mushrooms, scallops, and cheese. The chefs layer the ingredients on an iron griddle until the okonomiyaki is airy and balanced, before topping it with sauces and an egg — that is, if you’d like.

Beyond its physical location under a rail line, Matsuyoshi’s smoky interior somehow feels extra under the tracks. Horumon (grilled offal) is the star here, especially the rib, tripe, tongue, and face meat. Even cuts like uterus and aorta are carefully grilled over charcoal and served with a side of miso sauce. Matsuyoshi’s home in the old-line Korean neighborhood of Tsuruhashi means its kimchi and soju choices are on point, too.

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Between the omakase sets, bowls of udon, and yakitori, a trip to Osaka calls for Japanese-style barbecue. Located in Namba, Matsusaka gyu Yakiniku M is a yakiniku (grilled meat) restaurant that specializes in Matsusaka beef. Diners can order sliced meat a la carte, or opt for one of the set menus that includes a selection of appetizers, a clay pot rice bowl, and dessert. The three-story restaurant can accommodate many different reservations — from private dining rooms to banquet halls for large parties — which all can be easily found via Resy.

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Osaka’s native Takaida-kei ramen has been mostly forgotten in the shuffle of new-wave shops, but Menya Jouroku is the happy exception. It has garnered a ton of extremely warranted praise from ramen cognoscenti for delivering a rich soy broth without overwhelming saltiness, topped with thin-cut pork. Also worth trying is the chuka soba, or Chinese-style noodles in soup. On the first Sunday of every month, come before 10 a.m. to experience Jouroku’s special breakfast ramen.

Shinsekai is lined with average kushikatsu (deep-fried, skewered meat and vegetable) shops surviving on the neighborhood’s reputation as the birthplace of the dish, but Echigen’s eccentric master elevates it well above the surrounding mediocrity. Standbys like beef, shishito peppers, and whiting are at their deep-fried best here, while signature skewers, like an entire chicken cutlet (deep-fried, of course) with wasabi, do justice to the ramshackle atmosphere.

Nonkiya’s dingy, tight interior matches the humility of its main dish, doteyaki (stewed beef tendon with miso and konjac). The goopy brown sauce should inspire confidence; if it looks that unappetizing, it has to taste good. Nonkiya’s doteyaki reins in the sweetness of the glaze for a meatier, melt-in-your-mouth flavor that’s best washed down with watery beer and a side of oden. This is a taste of Shinsekai before its tourism boom — all the more charming for its grit.

For old-school Osakans, offal stew is a near-necessity in the depths of a cold, damp winter. At cramped, smoky Tatsuya, the signature motsunabe (a hot pot of beef and pork intestines) avoids any unwanted chewiness in the organ meats, while a healthy topping of kimchi brings just the right amount of spice. Notoriously frugal south Osakans will say they come to get the best bang for their yen, but really it’s all about the flavor.

For almost 700 years, Kanbukuro has been producing a single sweet: kuromi mochi, or walnut rice cakes. The sticky, bite-sized balls are soaked in a green bean paste and topped with shaved ice in the summertime. While Kanbukuro’s sweets are not the most aesthetic, they have received rave reviews from figures like lord Toyotomi Hideyoshi and tea ceremony master Sen no Rikyū since Japan’s Feudal days.